Natural Hair Glossary

A natural hair glossary is a great resource for any newcomer to the natural hair community!

If you are new to natural hair, it can get confusing and overwhelming. I know, I was the newbie over 13 years ago.

The terms alone can make you feel inadequate when you don’t know them.

You hear them often, rolling off the tongues of naturalistas and wonder how you can get up to speed with all this jargon!

I’m here to give you the natural hair lexicon. You are welcome 🙂

Here are some terms and their descriptions:

ACV Rinse (Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse)

To rinse your hair with a solution of ACV and water. ACV’s acidity is close to that of natural hair. It is considered a good conditioner and cleanser (see also no-poo).

Big Chop

To cut all your chemically treated hair off and remain with your natural hair, or to cut a significant amount of length off your natural hair.

Co-wash (Conditioner wash)

To wash your hair with a conditioner (see also no-poo).

Detangle

To separate each strand from the other. Due to your curl pattern being kinky coily, hair strands easily wrap around each other. Thus detangling is the process of separating the strands. Click here to see how I detangle

Double Strand Knot

when two strands of hair create knot.

Hair Porosity

your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. High porosity means your hair strands absorb a lot of moisture quickly, but also lose moisture (or dry up) quickly. Low porosity means that once moisture is in your hair strands it stays longer and does not dry out fast. However, products tend to sit on the hair and don’t easily penetrate the hair shaft.  Medium porosity is balanced porosity, hair absorbs and retains moisture well.

Hair Regimen

Your hair care routine. It includes what you do (e.g. wash, moisturise, deep condition, protective style), how often (frequency) you do it, and the products you use.

Hair Type

A system created by Andre Walker which helps you to identify your curl pattern which in turn helps you understand the characteristics of your hair. Understanding those characteristics helps you to make better choices relating to handling your hair and products you use. Hair type, though, in its entirety not only speaks to curl pattern but also to other aspects such as porosity, density and thickness. All of which should influence the choices you make about your hair. The hair typing chart ranges hair from 1A which is straight hair, to 4C hair with is kinky coily hair.

Heat Damage

Damage to your hair strands caused by excessive heat. Direct heat from appliances (especially when used at very high temperatures and/or not using a heat protectant) immediately strip the hair of all its moisture. You know you’ve got heat damage when after wetting your hair, it does not revert to it natural curly state. Hair also feels rough and very dry, and ends break easily.

LCO  (Liquid (or leave-in) Cream Oil) 

The process of adding and sealing moisture to dry hair by adding water or a leave in conditioner, then a cream and then an oil.

LOC (Liquid (or leave-in) Oil Cream)

The process of adding and sealing moisture to dry hair by adding water or a leave in conditioner, then an oil and then a cream.

Low Manipulation style

Styles requiring no direct heat, e.g. braid outs, twist outs, perm rod set, etc.

Multi Strand Knot

When more than two strands of hair create a knot.

Natural Hair Journey

The experience of discovering what your hair likes or dislikes over time. No two heads are the same so each one’s journey is unique.

No Butters, No Oils

A 30 day hair detox for your natural hair where you use no oils and no butters on your hair. In this detox you clarify your hair thoroughly using shampoos or clarifiers, then follow up with conditioners to hydrate your hair and then lastly, use gels and mousses. Founded by Aeleise and Aishia.

No–poo (No shampoo)

Washing hair with an alternative gentle to shampoo such as apple cider vinegar, conditioner, clays, etc.

Parabens

Controversial preservatives found in cosmetic products. Click here to get the science behind it and its effects on your hair.

Pre-poo  (Pre or before shampoo)

To add an extra layer of protection (usually a natural oil and/or a deep conditioner) to your hair before shampooing in order to lessen the impact of harsh ingredients (e.g. sulphates) found in many shampoos that strip hair of its natural oil – sebum. (there are sulphate-free shampoos on the market)

Protective Style

A style that keeps the ends of your hair tucked away and shielded from the elements e.g. buns, cornrows, braids. These styles help in retaining length. Protective styles can be considered low manipulation.

Search and Destroy

An approach to trimming your natural hair where you examine your hair strands looking for knots and split ends. You snip problematic strands with hair shears.

Sebum

Natural oil our skin (sebaceous glands) produces.

Shrinkage

The phenomenon when your natural hair comes in contact with water or a water based product.  It is a natural tendency for kinky coily hair to spring up showing that it is healthy and full of elasticity. Your shrinkage is the difference between your shrunken hair and your pulled out/stretched hair.

Silicones

Artificial oils (dimethicone) often used in hair care products that prevent moisture from going into or out of your hair. There are newer ones (amodimethicone) that are water soluble. (read more)

Single Strand Knot

When a single strand of hair loops around itself and creates a knot.

Transition

The process where, after you’ve decided to go natural, you allow your natural hair to grow out without cutting the chemically treated part. The intention is to, after some time, big chop the relaxed hair and remain with all natural hair.

TWA (Teeny Weeny Afro)

When your natural hair is still quite short.

Water Only Method

The approach of using water only as part of your hair regimen; no oils, no creams, etc. This is where, by scritching and preening your hair with the aid of warm water daily, you encourage sebum down your strands in order to coat them. This method also involves massaging you hair daily.

Feel free to add to this natural hair glossary any term I’ve missed, by commenting below!

Subscribe to my newsletter and never miss a post.